S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop PR and FKT rambling

My PR
My run a few days ago may, or may not, have been a PR for me on the S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop so I figured I should post it so that I can remember for next time (I seem to forget to post my times for this loop every time I run it...). I ran the 17ish mile loop in 3 hrs 31 minutes.

I may have run it faster in the past but I seem to not have any record of it or recollection. So... even though I wasn't try to push it to much on this run, I did put in a decent time for what I can remember. Might as well have something to chase for next time if I feel like really going for it.  It would seem that I could, with a strong effort, go close to or under 3 hours based on how my easy effort along with my recent lack of training played out here.

S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop FKT
This all makes me wonder if there is a FKT that anyone knows of for this loop... not that I would be able to come anywhere close to a FKT on this loop personally but it is fun to know what the fast folks have done. Based on the fastest times that I have heard of on the S. Kaibab Trail (about 2 hours Rim to River to Rim), I would guess that someone has probably run the S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop in 2 1/2 hours or less. Anyone have an idea of a FKT for the loop?

Now, just to be clear, the loop I'm talking about starts at the S. Kaibab Trailhead and then down to the river, crosses the east bridge on the Colorado River, travels past the water and bathroom at Bright Angel Creek and then back over the Colorado River again on the west bridge to head back up the Bright Angel Trail to the rim again. I am not including the paved trail that connects the Bright Angel and the S. Kaibab Trailheads along the rim (this would be a 25 mile loop). I park at the Bright Angel Trailhead and take the bus out to the S. Kaibab Trailhead to start like a true lazy ass runner. I really don't think the pavement is that fun, even if it is along the rim of the Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon FKT's
Funny, that on the FKT website there is a fastest known time for R2R2R but no FKT's for some of the other amazing loops in the canyon and for the Tonto Trail. This seems like a bit of a no brainer as many of the trails and loops in the Grand Canyon are as good as R2R2R but maybe not as cool or as runnable or not as well known or something.

These are the trails/loops besides R2R2R that I could see being on the FKT list: 
(all these runs assume no rim running, just running trailhead to trailhead)
-S.Kaibab (Rim to River to Rim-but not sure what the 'legit' turn around spot would be for the FKT as someone could not get water at the bottom and just turn around at the bridge on Colorado River? or go to the first water source over bridge or go all the way to Phantom Ranch water source before heading back up...)
-S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop
-Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel Loop (a.k.a. The Grand Canyon Marathon)
-Tonto Trail


Then there are the many more rad loops that can be done using the Tonto and the Escalante Trails that could be added if you want to make the FKT list get even bigger. It seems that the above four additions would fit well though as they are very popular. Although...of course, all of this is very debatable and maybe that is why the R2R2R is the only route listed on the FKT website. It is the obvious one for sure.

Of course, I doubt that I am even close to holding a FKT on one of these routes so I won't be posting them up anytime soon. Maybe someone will though...it just seems fun to see how fast these routes have been done.

I probably sound like I'm trying to turn the Grand Canyon into a track but I'm not. It will always be wild and burly to run in there. I don't see it ever being a big track meet with the trails full of runners jockeying for position. It's just fun to chase some numbers once in a while even when running in a crazy place like the canyon. So...post up speedsters! I want to see just how slow I am!

S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop, a.k.a. Ego Boost Loop

(Ego Boost Loop)

Want your running ego to go through the roof? ...well, I've got the run for you! The S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop in the Grand Canyon. You will feel like you are one of the best runners in the world, guaranteed!

Yesterday, while running this loop, my running ego was inflated to heights way, way, way beyond my or any one's ego should ever be allowed to soar. It's not because I deserved it, that's obvious. It was because I was a very average runner who happened to be running on one of the most famous trail loops in the world, thus, surrounded by hordes of all sorts of levels of hikers, with most of them having little to no trail experience and being way deeper in the canyon then they are prepared to deal with. Thus, to them, anyone running in the canyon (no matter how painfully slow...) is an Olympic athlete.  It just blows their minds. So, imagine running past hundreds of hikers that fit the above description and receiving their slack jaw, bug eyed looks and comments ... you are set up for a major ego boost.

As I have, more recently, been running off the beaten path trails in the canyon, my only company has been the odd hiker who also is adept at back country travel, the birds animals, dirt, trees, plants, rocks, river and sky. It is often a solitary human experience. There is no one to stroke your ego. No fan fair at the rim when you finish. You have to run because you truly want to explore this fantastic place and that is all. Sure, I may tell the odd person at work or hanging out about my runs or blog about it here but most the people that I talk to or read my blog are outdoor folk with similar or better abilities than I and they don't bat an eye at what I've done. They usually respond by asking questions or sharing their experience about that particular trail as they have either been on it or will soon and probably will do it faster or in better style than I.

So, back to my run yesterday... I did feel really good and was running well. I even felt particularly strong climbing up the final steep sections of the Bright Angel Trail on the way back up to the rim but, again, I am a very average runner and my effort didn't warrant the looks and ego stroking remarks that were continually thrown at me.

The run down the S. Kaibab was marked by passing only two people near the beginning of the trail and scaring them as I went by. This is not because I sneak up on them maliciously and try to scare the crap out of them for fun. I generally say hello or excuse me well before reaching someone so that I won't scare them. But, for some reason, probably the majesty of the canyon and the amazing silence of the canyon, people get mesmerized, almost as if in a trance by the canyon and the effort of hiking, people don't ever hear me coming up from behind. Also, I think people just don't expect to have someone run past them in a place like this. So, at least half of the time I pass people they jump at least a few inches off the ground in fright. I have to admit that I do enjoy it even though I try to avoid it.

Back on track... after passing the couple hikers, I had complete silence in the canyon and extremely enjoyable running, just floating along, all the way to the river. It was pretty much perfect bliss.

Then, after getting water, I headed up the Bright Angel trail and it all began. The trail went from quiet, peaceful running to weaving around hordes of people and receiving their looks of shock and ego stroking comments. The run had transitioned to full on ego boost mode.

What exactly feeds the ego on this loop? Well, these are the things I heard and facial expressions I witnessed on the run to give you some idea. The first person I ran past was a backpacker who said "your one of those amazing runners I read about!" while his friend stood silently in shock with wide eyes and jaw dropped. The next many groups I went by were backpackers too and every one of them said "Will you carry my pack? Seems like you need more weight." Amazing that they would all say the exact same thing to me but they did. It is a very common comment to runners in the canyon... Higher up on the trail (around Indian Garden) the hikers transitioned from backpackers to day hikers. The responses I got from people also transitioned to a huge spike in general open mouths, bugged out eyes, heads shaking back and forth in disbelief, questions about if I went to the river and people talking behind my back after I went by them. The crowning moment was when I went past a group of a dozen Quakers in full dress that performed every ego boosting action listed above. I was literally floating along on my ego at that point!

All of this can be a bit crazy and irritating after the 100th person does it, especially after running in solitude so much in the canyon, but I also enjoy, every once in a while, soaking it all in and answering all their questions politely and getting that big ego boost. I mean, come on, running can be such a solitary sport (no body really knows what the hell we are doing most of the time nor do they care, we just run cuz we love too)...what's the harm in having some hikers make you feel good about yourself, like your something special every once in a while (even if your an average runner like me...).

I'd say there is nothing wrong about it...just soak it all in and then keep it all in perspective. I'm sure reality will settle right back in on your (and my) next run when someone of average running ability blazes past you on the trail as if you weren't moving. ...then it's back to reality. But remember...the S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop will always be there to feed the ego. Just go back and run it again to get your running ego fix! ...this trail should probably be prescribed by a doctor to every runner in the country to be done at least once a year!

Gila Trip diverted...back to Arizona

No weekend in the Gila. Instead it was a weekend of wandering northern Arizona...not what we originally planned but still a weekend away is a weekend away!

We originally had planned to go to the Gila in southwestern New Mexico to meet some friends and do a hike/run in the mountains there. But...before that we flip flopped about 50 times about if we had the time to go or wanted to spend the money and to top it off Susan was maybe getting sick. We really wanted to explore a new area and hang out with friends but we just weren't sure if we could justify leaving town.

(The Catwalk. This is where our hike/run in the Gila was supposed to start. Looks pretty rad. Maybe some other time.)

In the end, we did decide to go to the Gila at the last possible hour, packed our stuff and were off driving in the car without being completely sure if we would even find our friends (at this point we had told them we weren't going...so, they didn't expect us anymore). Along the drive, we left messages with them hoping they would return the call and we would still be able to hook up.

Well, when we finally did get in touch with them they said that the loop we wanted to do was snowed in and in rough shape so they were headed further south in the Gila toward Silver City to climb, hot spring, eat steak, wander galleries and explore trails.

Poop...that foiled our plans to go there as we didn't have the time to drive further south and it wasn't worth it to drive all the way there if everything was going to be snowed in.

We parked it in a small town in eastern Arizona and tried to figure out a new plan... We were 3 hours from home and in need of a new direction for weekend play. We discussed exploring the trails of Gallup and brainstormed about other areas we didn't know much about and finally decided to head back to Northern Arizona and explore things a little closer to home. We turned the car around and headed to Payson.

That night, after a few more hours of driving, we drove through Payson and camped along the beautiful East Verde (an area that Jeff and I put up some sport routes last year). Finally!...we stopped driving, relaxed and got a great night sleep listening to the creek 100 feet away. East Verde is very reminiscent of Oak Creek between Flagstaff and Sedona. It's a small creek chalk full of lush grass and trees that contrast the dry and dusty desert surrounding it.

Then next morning we made a plan of visiting the Tonto Natural Bridge between Payson and Pine and then to Pine to run on the Highline Trail or Sedona to run. I was really excited to go to the Tonto Natural Bridge and explore it more as it is one of the most amazing looking 'potential climbing areas' in the United States and I wasn't able to walk through it during my visit last year (they weren't allowing people to walk under it as the creek was too high). I was convinced by that one visit, though, that this was a place I wanted to  climb at (climbing there is not cool right now).

Well, our visit was awesome and I still wish that climbing could be possible there, but... after walking through it and being intimate with the space, I just don't see how the State Parks would ever feel comfortable with allowing us to put sport routes in there. The routes would be world class, hands down, but  it seems to me that the state will never allow us to climb all over this gem...or at least it would take way, way more work and time than I, or potentially, anyone else would ever have to sway the State to allow climbing.

I guess it's better just to look at it and marvel. I guess we don't need to climb everything...arg.

(Approaching the massive arch. That thing is 200 ft high!)

(First steps inside the arch.)

(Huge underbelly of the arch.  This thing is 300 ft from one end to the other!)

(Really amazing swimming holes under the arch...no swimming allowed though. Lame.)

(One of my favorite features of the cave. This wall is at least 150 feet tall and covered in tufas!!! I guessed there could be at least 20 routes on this wall alone!) 

(Another view of the impressive tufa wall. Holy crap!)

(Having fun grabbing cool features and wishing I could climb here.)

(Loving it. Yes, we are in the middle of the arch. This thing is huge!)

(Beautiful place. Oh yeah, that IS a waterfall flowing over the exit of the arch. Sick!)

(Marveling at all the features.)

(Oh...just another 150 foot tall tufa covered wall...)

(Want to get a sense of the size of this arch? Check out the two people at the bottom of this photo.  THIS ARCH IS HUGE.)

(Exiting the back side of the arch.)

(WOW. This wall is over 250 feet tall and overhangs at least 200 feet and, yes, it has holds all over it!!!)

(I couldn't resist...)

After experiencing the wow factor of the arch, we headed the short 10 minute drive to Pine and the West start of the Highline Trail to move our legs. I have wanted to check this trail out for the last couple years, as it is a rugged and wild 50 mile trail that traverses just below the Mogollon Rim...sounds like a great run to do some time.

Susan and I were going to do the west most 5 miles as an out and back starting next to Pine....until we got creeped out by the dude in the van that gave us a weird look as we parked. He was just hanging out in the parking lot, sitting in his van. After that weird encounter and a guy at the parking lot telling us that the weird guy in the van had been there for at least 4 hours, we decided to drive a few miles away to another trail head to start our run on the Highline Trail.

So, we drove over to the Red Rock Trail. It added a 1 mile approach to the Highline Trail and connects at Red Rock Spring. We used this trail to access the Highline Trail and then ran on the Highline west for a few miles. The trails (Red Rock and Highline) were in terrible shape, as I have been told by many, so we didn't really run very much. We just resigned ourselves to a day of hiking with a little running sprinkled in. I mean, who ever originally built that trail was whack. It is in extremely bad shape mostly due to water erosion because of how it was built. In fact, the trail is pretty much loose rocks, bushes, fallen trees and water gullies. Fun for me on an adventure run...but not fun for a relaxing run out with the wife. Luckily, the expansive views were nice so we enjoyed exploring the (new to us) trails. It's hard not to enjoy new trails!

(Red Rock Trailhead)

(Getting psyched!)

(This sign says that the trail is maintained by 'Payson Packers'. Hmmm...they have a different definition of maintained then I do.)

(Red Rock Trail/Highline Trail Junction)

(Part of Red Rock Spring.)

(There were some moron hunter's ATV's  parked here that they drove, yes, drove miles up the Highline Trail to hunt. Trust me, this trail was not made for ATV's and I can't believe that this would be o.k. with the Forest Service or good for the already destroyed trail. Lazy idiots. To be honest...I'm not sure how they even were able to get their ATV's up the trail with how rugged it it. Crazy.)

(A really nice spot, high on a ridge, on the Highline Trail.)

(Red Rock Trail sign on the way back to the car.)

After our day of fun at Tonto and on the Highline Trail, we zipped over to Sedona to camp so that we could try and sneak in a run before the forcasted heavy rains for Sunday.

Well... about half way through the night the rain started and didn't stop. It only got stronger and stronger. We had to pack up and move the car to a camp spot miles closer to pavement than our original remote dirt road camp spot in fear of how treacherous the dirt roads could become.

Sunday morning we got up, recognized that there was going to be no running with how the trails would be a complete mud bog and carefully maneuvered the muddy dirt roads to 89a and headed home.

So, it ended up being a weekend away, but at home all the same. Kind of fun to do a weekend away in our own neck of the woods. We have an amazing back yard! Good adventuring! Gotta love Arizona.

First Winter Run up Elden Lookout Road

Every year, I mark the true winter running season (for me anyway...) by my first run up the Mt. Elden Lookout Road.   This 'first run of the road' happens when the first heavy snowfall has finally made a mess of the trails enough to force me to run a road to get to the summit of something. Even though I don't get too psyched on running roads, running the Mt. Elden Lookout Road in the winter doesn't seem like much of a road when it's covered in a foot or two of snow! Here's a couple shots from the top of Mt. Elden from the run.

(Road condition during the run and pretty typical conditions most of the winter.)

(Looking east from the top.)

(True summit of Mt. Elden.)

(The Peaks!)

Well... time to shift to mandatory trail running at sunrise (to beat the mud and slush...), trying to squeeze more out of the Grand Canyon and getting down to Sedona to run. I fought the coming winter a little at first...but changing seasons ain't so bad with the GC and Sedona just down the road!

Funny thing happened the last few days though...it rained a ton and now it is supposed to be sunny and in the 50's. All the snow in town melted and most of the snow on the dry lake hills too. I guess I may be able to squeeze in some more high elevation trail runs yet! In fact, I did a 10 mile loop on the Dry lake hills this morning and the snow was no big deal. The snow on the loop was never more than ankle deep. Seems like I may be able to keep one foot in Fall and one foot in Winter for a while yet.

Tanner Trail Grand Canyon Run

I got to scratch my Grand Canyon itch again last Thursday and, as always, scratching that itch felt GOOD!

When choosing which trail to run, I focused on doing something new (as I usually try to do...) and get on a trail I haven't been on before that goes rim to river. Since the S. Bass and Tanner are the only ones that I hadn't been to the river on (from the S. Rim anyway...) and I didn't have time to 4x4 out the lengthy dirt roads to the remote S. Bass Trail, Tanner Trail became the obvious choice.

S. Bass would have to wait for another adventure...maybe I'll tick that one off during a Tonto Loop with the Boucher Trail or all the way to the end of the Tonto, finishing on New Hance (S. Bass and New Hance are the traditional start and end points for the full Tonto traverse).

The Tanner Trail had been recommended to me many times by running friends as a great 'off the beaten path' run in the Grand Canyon as it is lesser known than the typical tourist trails (S. Kaibab, Bright Angel, etc.) and is much more rugged (unmaintained by the park service).  Although, despite some super steep and scrambly sections, the trail is known to be mostly runnable with some really great, smooth sections and the more wide open views and geology of the east Grand Canyon give the runner very different views and general feeling than the rest of the canyon.

Sounded like a great run to me!

So, I made this run the typical, get up super early, start running at first light, get down to the river and back up to the rim in good time and then book it back to Flagstaff to work in the afternoon or evening. This schedule has offered me the only way to squeeze out so many of my runs in at the Grand Canyon. I don't have the luxury of going when ever I want, hang out at the rim afterwards to soak it all in and down brews with my buds...I gotta work!

That being said, I made it to the trailhead a bit before light (about 6 am) and parked among the other 10 or so cars that were waiting to get their photos of the sunrise. I took the time I had, before there was enough light to run, to stay bundled in the car to stay warm (it was below freezing still outside...) and get my stuff together. As the sun started to give light to the canyon and the tourists started emerging from their cars to set up their tripods I stripped down to shorts, gloves and a couple long sleeves, put on my Nathan pack and walked the 100 yards of pavement to the trailhead. It was time to run.

I love this part of each and every Grand Canyon run...when my first few steps hit the earth of the trail and I start running down, down, into the canyon. It feels like coming back home every time...home to wonder, excitement, fear, pleasure, pain, adventure, self-reliance and all the other primitive sensations that give me my intense connection to this amazing canyon. This home, the Grand Canyon, gives me every one of these sensations with every run below the rim. Every run.

(View of first light in the canyon from the parking lot)

(First light)

(Tanner Trail Head)

Once on the trail, I was able to get in a good running rhythm and get warmed up for about 2 minutes until I plunged down steep switch backs and rubble in the initial steep gully descent of the trail. I pretty much had to resign myself to walking mixed with short sections of jogging until I made it down to Tanner Canyon Saddle and easier terrain. No big deal really as I wasn't trying to break any records (as if there was one for this trail anyway...). I just wanted to get out and run a new trail.

(View I will never get sick of... First light hitting the walls of the canyon.)

(Getting closer to Tanner Canyon Saddle and easier ground)

 Once I got through the initial gully descent the trail improved dramatically and I was able to run at a comfortable pace along rolling terrain for the next many miles to the next serious drop through the red limestone layer. I made sure to savor this great section of trail, jogging along and looking at the many fantastic boulders (I made it this far on the Tanner almost 10 years ago? to boulder with friends a couple times...a lot of work for bouldering...but awesome), taking photos and generally absorbing the magnificent surroundings.

(The first boulder I ever climbed on along the Tanner trail way back when....ahhh the memories. There is an amazing V7ish sit down problem on the front right side of this boulder that we did.)

(Another amazing Joe's Valleyish boulder along the trail that we did problems on back in the day.)

(Again, another great boulder along the trail.)

(First light on the trail)

(View back up to the rim, looking east toward the Desert View Watch Tower. Look closely and you can see it on top of the rim.)

 After all the joyous running along this great bench, I had to again slow down to a walking and sometimes jogging pace as I dropped down, steeply, through the limestone layer. Once I made it through the limestone the trail rewarded me with excellent, soft downhill single track all the way to the river as I dropped down through the Tapeats layer and a red sandstone layer. I would have to say that this was by far my favorite section of the trail. Just wonderful running!

(Dropping through the Tapeats)

(Great running through a beautiful red sandstone layer all the way to the river)

 The shore of Tanner Rapids was a place I would have liked to spend the day at. I hit it about the same time the sun was so I had to leave to head back up to the rim right as I got sun on my face! Arg... I did get to sit on a rock and absorb the place for about 15 minutes though. What a great 15 minutes. Just a wonderful beach to hang out at. Looked like a great place to camp too...maybe Susan and I will find ourselves camping here some day.

(Looking down stream from Tanner Rapids)

(First light about to hit Tanner Rapids)

(Tanner Rapids)

(Spot where Tanner Creek dumps into the Colorado River during spring run off)

 The trip back up was a ton more work but pretty enjoyable as I got to bask in the sun allowing me to finally strip down to a short sleeve shirt. I will admit though, that this trail makes you work for it. When ever I think I might do a trail that will be easier in the canyon I am reminded that each and every trail in the Grand Canyon is going to gain at least 4,500 ft on the way out and it is not going to be easy, especially these 'off the beaten path' trails as they are super rugged compared to S. Kaibab and Bright Angel. Super rugged. I like 'em that way but, wow, not easy.

(Working hard going back up through the Tapeats and Red Limestone layers)

(Looking up at the final climb to the car after the wonderfully flat running above the Red Limestone layer)

Once back up on the rim, I got in a quick look out over the canyon before dashing back home and the realities of every day life. I really tried to savor the view and looked down into the canyon to retrace my route on the Tanner Trail. All in all, it was about 18 miles with just over 5,000 feet of elevation gain and the same loss and I covered the distance in 5 hours on the nose.

What great experiences and memories I accumulate down in the Grand Canyon... As I scanned the canyon from the rim, I reminded myself to try and never take for granted the fact that I get to explore this unbelievably wonderful place.

I am a very lucky person.

Isolation Canyon

I had a lot of fun with Susan at Isolation Canyon a couple weekends ago and wanted to do a quick post about it with some photos while I have the chance. Isolation is a bit of both wild and tame climbing all packed into one...with tons of bolts and good gear protection in super hard quartzite but also a SERIOUS amount of choss. I am not joking about the choss, with car sized blocks ready to fall that have sport routes on 'em along with countless smaller hollow and loose blocks ready to go. But, with the piles of bolts and good gear it all seems a little less scary for some reason and many of the lines are extremely aesthetic, just begging to be climbed. Thus, I had a really good time, got on whatever looked good and chalking it up to adventure...and since it is only an hour and a half from home I'm sure we will be back to sample some more of the climbing. To get more information about Isolation including route descriptions go here (there is no print guide for this area at this time). Note: If you print the routes off the web to take with you, make sure to print the route descriptions too or you will be totally lost like we were (I will most definitely be printing route descriptions next time). Have fun!

Below are a few shots from the weekend. We did a ton of routes and I wish I would have gotten photos of all of 'em...but a few is better than none. Here ya go...

(Camping near the Trailhead)

(On the way to the cliff...part of the approach is on the Arizona Trail. Gave me visions of running from here to Flagstaff on the AZ Trail or maybe running south for some distance. Hmmmm...)

(Susan near the beginning the 40 minute approach)

(The Main Wall at Isolation. Up to 3 pitch routes on this thing. Good fun.)

(Someone on the 3 pitch, Walking Dead Arete, that we climbed on the trip. AWESOME ROUTE! It follows a very obvious and striking arete for over 200 feet.)

(Susan on another great arete called Great Race. A little chossy but really cool feature.)

(Wandering the base off the Main Wall and deciding what to climb...so much choss, so little time.)

(Susan on Spinous Process. On one of the more unchossy sections of the wall. Good climbing.)

(Susan on La Nariz a good route over all but with a super awkward crux on the first roof.)

(One of the best ways to finish a good day of climbing!)