R2R2R Report:You pay for what you get

Monday I not only learned the meaning of "you pay for what you get" I had it beaten into me by 11,000 feet of elevation gain and 11,000 feet of elevation loss over 43 miles and temps reaching a high of 90 degrees. Going rim to rim to rim in the Grand Canyon always makes "you pay for what you get!" Oh... I paid.

I started Monday, up at 3 am. I had all my stuff packed the night before (took only 20 minutes-gotta love the simplicity of running) and ready to go so I was out the door by 3:20 am. A god awful early start but necessary if I was to make it to the rim and be ready to start running by sunrise (about 5:15 am).

The drive there was a little bit more lively than in recent weeks. The elk have been out the last few months on my early morning drives to the canyon but this morning was different. It felt like a video game with elk all over the place. I only had to slam on the brakes once but I lost count of the times where I would see an elk 10 feet away standing on the side of the road. I even saw a quite large heard of deer or antelope about half way. The only reason I noticed them was the car headlights shining into their eyes (easily 100 eyes lit up) as I passed their stance in a meadow. Pretty cool to see all the wildlife but a little unnerving to say the least.

I reached the canyon at about 4:50 am and, still in the dark, decided to take my time liberally applying sunscreen and getting my stuff organized. I ended up committing to having 3 shot bloks, 14 gu, a cliff bar and a bunch of nuun electrolyte tabs for food and shorts and a couple long sleeve shirts for cloths. It was pretty warm, even at this hour, so I almost didn't bring one of the long sleeve shirts (I really only thought I might need it on the north rim if it was still chilly when I got there. For a hydration system I used a nathan pack and one small hand held.

By about 5:10 it was light out enough to see without a headlamp so I was off. I jogged the little bit from the parking area to the rim and start of the S. Kaibab trail to warm up. When I reached the trail head I chatted it up for a minute with a couple that was about to go down to catch the sunrise at Cedar Ridge then started my watch and was off.

It was really exciting to be going to the north rim and back. I hadn't done R2R2R in a year and was really psyched to see what I had in me. It was obvious, as I had a bit of the nervous rubber legs going on for the first mile or so.

By the time I had reached Skeleton Point (about 3 miles in) I had warmed up and got past my earlier jitters. I was moving fast and felt good. The rest of the run down the S. Kaibab was smooth and enjoyable. I saw and awesome sunrise and counted only 2 people on the whole S. Kaibab. Some kind of record for me. I always see a bunch of people on this trail! Pretty amazing running in the still of the early morning with not a soul around.

I made it to the river in 1 hour exactly, only took a couple minutes to fill up on water, and was off through Phantom Ranch and the barely rising campers.

A few minutes up the N. Kaibab trail I spotted a packless runner (no hand held either) bounding quietly up the trail a few hundred yards ahead of me. I went through a few scenarios in my head as I followed him in the early morning light along the rolling, creek side trail. Wondering just how far up this trail he intended to go and where he came from. I finally settled in on the idea that he came from Phantom Ranch (an employee or tourist) and was headed up to Ribbon Falls or Roaring Springs and then back to the ranch. Time would tell.

He did give me a great pace to follow as he was moving at a perfect pace for me to give chase. My goal was to try and keep him in sight for the duration of his run up the N. Kaibab.

I was able to keep him in view for the next several miles until he cut off left to go to Ribbon Falls. I was right...whoopity doo. Where's my prize...oh yeah, no prize, just keep running and hold that pace I have been keeping so far. I was hoping to reach Roaring Springs in about 2:45 from the car and at my pace I was looking to do it.

As I went through Cottonwood Campground (2:25) I noticed that nobody was camped there. Weird. I have always seen a few tents at this camp. Man, the canyon was really quiet. I also started noticing little tiny rock cairns along the trail in artful arrangements. I don't want to go into my normal long winded rant about how lame rock cairns for art in the wilderness are (I'll save it for another time when we are talking about Sedona..they are everywhere there..arg...I get grumpy just thinking about these eyesores). After seeing about 10 of them I made it a goal to knock down as many of these things as I could along the way. I did good on my goal by the time I reached Roaring Springs as I knocked down at least 20 of those wretched little things. Very satisfying.

I reached Roaring Springs in 2:38, filled up on water, and was off toward the big climb to the N. Rim. Time to get worked...and time to knock down more rock cairns...who had the time to build all these things? Oh well, they are getting knocked down! Again, very satisfying! Over the next mile or so past Roaring Springs I knocked down at least another 20 of those little pesky cairns. Ha.

About the same time the cairns stopped the work began. I ran well up to this point but from here on out to the N. Rim I had to be satisfied with walking the hills and running the flats. I was making great time for me (in fact, way better than expected) so I was fine with the pace.

After a few bouts with snow (not much up there except for the multiple feet still on the N. Rim itself) and a run in with another R2R2R runner I made it to the north rim with a time of 4:21 and feeling surprisingly great. I have always felt like crap up here on past runs but this year seemed different. It became obvious that I was in much better shape this year. I was really getting excited to put in a good time. If I could push hard on the way back and match my time I would finish in less than 9 hours! Very fast for me.

I got to it right away, reaching the N. Kaibab trail head and immediately heading back down the to the river and the S. Rim. I didn't want to wast any time.

I made good time again, moving well down the steep trail back to Roaring Springs, pausing once in a while to take a cooling shower under the many seasonal waterfalls in this section and keeping a sharp eye and foot out for kicking over the few cairns I missed on the way up. Again...very satisfying.

Made it down to Roaring Springs in a time of 5:15. Still moving well and feeling very good.

I kept moving well until about 3 miles from the river when I noticed I was starting to loose my spring. I had a harder time keeping pace, definitely slowing down. About the same time I noticed my energy levels dropping I also noticed the morning was turning into afternoon and the temperatures were rising quickly in the bottom of the canyon. The last few miles to Phantom Ranch were much slower than I hoped for and I was getting really hot. At least I was doing a good job of hydrating and fueling myself (I was trying to get ahead of my hydration and energy before the big climb up the S. Kaibab that was coming shortly).

By the time I reached Phantom Ranch it was easily 90 degrees and I was slowing down big time. I reached Phantom Ranch with a time of 6:50. I didn't hang around down there to be microwaved to death, instead I filled up on water, covered myself in water to cool off and weakly jogged across the bridge to the S. Kaibab. I knew that I didn't have a lot of energy at this point and it was hot. Getting back up to the S. Rim was not going to be fast.

Normally, I can comfortably get out of the canyon in about 2 hours. If I could do that on this run I would make it out in less than 9 hours. Sadly, I already knew the writing on the wall and that I would have to have a big time energy boost somewhere along this final climb if I was going to break 9 hours.

I resigned myself to moving as fast as I could. Sometimes slowly walking, sometimes shuffling and even a few times (about 10 minutes of the whole climb out) flat out running. Mostly though, I was just trying to stay ahead of the people I passed hiking on the trail. One lady gave me a good run for my money near Cedar Ridge!

Somehow, however slowly, I managed to near the S. Rim with a chance of still breaking 9:30. I had given up on getting out in 2 hours long before... On the final semi flats and steep switchbacks I jogged and power hiked my ass off fighting some serious fatigue and pain (amazing how there was still a little bit of competitive drive to be found in my broken down body) past a traffic jam of tourists and finally stumbled around gasping for air on the flat rim for a few minutes. I had finished.

When I had stepped onto the rim my watch read 9:29:30, barely squeaking in under 9:30. The S. Kaibab took me almost 2 3/4 hours to stumble up. Oh, the horror.

I was psyched with my time though. It was a full hour faster than last year and with a little more fitness I may be able to get into the 8 hour world, something I never thought possible a few years ago.

Another great run in the canyon. Now to recover and on to running the Paria and Zion Traverse in May... I am psyched.

Note: I have been really inspired by some recent efforts by others in the canyon and don't think I would have tried to push so hard otherwise (I don't think I would have tried to get to N. Rim in less than 4 1/2 hours! that's for sure). I may have ran out of gas at the end but realize now that a lot of running fast is just believing and trying. I knew I wouldn't do anything stupid in the canyon-I would slow down if I was in serious danger- but running fast is a bit intimidating to commit to in such a remote place. Thanks for the inspiration guys. Next year I'll be shooting for under 9! Thanks for giving me something to chase!

Token Sedona Climb 2010

It seems the last few years Susan and I have made it a "thing" to do a token Sedona trad route once a year. Our climbing style of choice these days is sport climbing so to do a choss ridden trad sandstone tower in Sedona is quite a novel adventure for us.

This year we climbed Mars Attacks 5.8, a very enjoyable moderate climb (a classic moderate in my book). The climbing was great with every pitch offering it's own flavor of fun and none to stressful. Pitch one: short slab pitch with what I felt was the crux (I don't climb slabs all that much anymore...). Pitch two: excellent limestone band traverse with lots of exposure (great fun-just like sport climbing at The Pit). Pitch 3: Interesting corner with great hand crack and lots of juggy huecos (my kind of crack climb). Pitch 4: A little bit of crack to more slab climbing (easier than first pitch slab=more fun!)

Below are a few photos from the day...

Me leading up pitch 1.

Susan on pitch 2 (the sweet limestone traverse).

Cool features on pitch three.

Susan leading pitch 4.

Showing our trad faces at the end of pitch 4 cuz we so hard!

Good fun.

R2R2R report coming soon...

Went R2R2R yesterday in 9:29:30. I got worked! Really went for it... full report coming soon.

Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel Loop Revisited

(Above map shows in red the Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel Loop I followed. The only part of the red I didn't follow is the upper left line that dead ends at Hermit Creek (that isn't part of the loop))

Sunday, I got back to an old favorite run in the Grand Canyon, the Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel Loop or as a ranger I saw on the loop called it, "The Hermit Marathon." Why a favorite? Four reasons... 1. I can cover a lot of miles (the loop is 27 miles) in the canyon without as much of the elevation changes (the trail never dips below the Tonto so the elevation change isn't more than 3,000 down and 3,000 up-I'm guessing at those elevation changes...), 2. It has a feel of remoteness that you just can't get on the tourist infested Bright Angel and S. Kaibab, 3. The whole trail is well defined and runnable as opposed to the majority of the "back country" trails in the canyon that have a lot of mandatory route finding and hiking/scrambling (example: Hermit/Tonto/Boucher Loop I did last week) and 4. It is an extremely beautiful section of canyon!

I ran the Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel loop last October and had some issues with the heat and just plain not running very fast. It was a great run but I suffered a bit on that one. I finished the loop in about 6 hours and was surprised I didn't come in a little faster. I really didn't move very fast on the Tonto and that is where you make up the time as it is mostly flat with some rolling hills.

Sunday, when I repeated the loop, I had a much better experience. I was able to keep a good pace down the Hermit (sometimes tricky as there are some steep, rocky sections and boulder piles to maneuver through), move relatively quickly along the Tonto and then power hike and jog up the Bright Angel in good time.

I finished in a decent time for me of 5 hours, a whole hour faster than last October, and felt pretty good doing it. This really excites me as I believe that I could push well below 5 hours the next time.

This gives me some confidence going into running the R2R2R next week and maybe snagging a PR. Last year my fastest time was around 10 hrs 30 minutes. With my faster times in the canyon this spring, I am hoping to definitely break 10 hours and maybe even push toward 9 hours. Who knows what will happen...all sorts of things can slow a runner down like mules, bad weather or just having an off day... or I could crush! We will see. I'm excited to find out. I love it down in that canyon!!!

Note: It is pouring rain and cool temps in Flagstaff right now and is supposed to rain off and on for the next few days. This is great because it means snow will be melting fast on the North Rim while also keeping it cool in the bottom of the canyon. With less snow on the N. Kaibab and cooler temps at Phantom Ranch, it could create great running conditions next week...

Below are a few photos from the run...

(Monument Spire on the Tonto Trail-I love this section. Both times I have run through this section I think about how some of my friends have climbed this choss pile (yuck!) and how bad ass the camping spot is near it. Maybe someday I'll come in here with the intention to stay for a while to explore....)

(Path leading through the camping area near Monument Spire.)

(Random spring along the Tonto Trail. Lots of water on the Tonto right now.)


(Flowers are in big time bloom right now on the Tonto Plateau. It was a pleasure to be running for hours through desert wildflowers!)


(More desert wildflowers...)

R2R2R

I have been planning to take a shot at a PR this spring on the "rim to rim to rim" or the "double crossing" in the Grand Canyon. The original plan was to do it earlier in April when the weather is cooler at Phantom Ranch but the extra pounding of snow on the north rim has kept me at bay. I have had a really hard time gathering information about the conditions up there (except that there has been multiple feet of snow on the last 2 miles of the trail as of the beginning of April) so I've been patiently waiting to hear reports from other hikers or runners. I'm not super excited to be post holing for miles in slush 20 miles from my car when I'm trying to turn in a PR effort...

I knew of a couple guys from Colorado that were going to run it this last Saturday so I patiently waited for their reports. Boy, did they give great reports on their blogs. Very thorough and great reading! After doing the "double crossing" a couple times myself, I felt like I was right there with 'em. Thanks guys!

Check out their reports below...
JV's Upill Adventures
Hang Nine


After reading their reports and how fast they ran it, I got pretty psyched to go for it snow or not. Especially, now that the weather is cooling (it has been 90 degrees at Phantom Ranch the last few days). It looks like the temps are supposed to be in the 70's at Phantom through the weekend and into early next week. I think I'm going to take a shot at it on Monday if all goes well.

I would say that I'm prepared with many long runs in the canyon this spring (at least I don't have an excuse for not doing it anyway...). I just got in another one a couple days ago, the Hermit/Tonto/Bright Angel Loop or the Hermit Marathon as a Grand Canyon Ranger called it (the run is 27 miles). I'm going to report on this run hopefully in the next day or two...it is another classic run in the canyon. To get an idea of what the loop is like check out an old report of mine from doing it last Fall here.

Now... time to take it easy the rest of the week and get psyched...

Hermit/Boucher Loop Run in Grand Canyon

Not all trails are created equal in the Grand Canyon. There are the tourist trails with their manicured, wide, gentle switchbacks (we're talking by Grand Canyon standards here...) and water and bathrooms along the way to help the unprepared hiker survive. Then there are the other trails...the real "backcountry" trails of the Grand Canyon like the loop I did Monday where the trails are sometimes reflective of the tourist trails and then at other times barely a trail at all marked by cairns and following near vertical gullies and snaking through ledge systems with 1,000 foot drop offs to keep sloppy footwork and balance in check. To be honest, I now believe that these real "backcountry" trails give a grand canyon hiker or runner a much more "true" or "honest" representation of the ruggedness of the canyon.

This real "backcountry" loop that I did Monday is called the Hermit/Boucher Loop and is roughly 22 miles. I had been wanting to run off the beaten path of the S. Kaibab and Bright Angel for some time and I finally felt up to the backcountry riggers of tougher trails and trail finding and a general lack of water (There are only a couple water sources right now on the whole 22 mile loop and none of them are treated).


The whole thing started off with a sunrise ride on the rim bus system (cars can't drive to the Hermit Trailhead during the busy months in the canyon). It was a very pleasant ride, chit chatting with the driver and the other two passengers, seeing elk and deer and watching the sun rise over the Grand Canyon. Once I reached the trail head and while getting dropped off, the driver gave me the standard warning to be careful as "young male hikers that hike by themselves are at the greatest risk to die in the canyon." Very comforting...

I thanked him for his concern and information and assured him I would be very careful during my run. I felt confident in my training and abilities and that I had prepared properly with having enough water (full bladder and full handheld (with nuun electrolyte tabs)) and enough energy (8 gu and 1 cliff bar) to get me through. I would only need one stop at Boucher Creek, half way through the run, to refill my bladder and handheld. About as light as I can make it and still stay hydrated and fueled.

Started down the trail, the sunrise was in full effect and it was a good one. There is something special about how the shadows and the golden sunlit cliffs contrast each other to make a surreal scene. Probably my favorite time to be in the canyon.

It was a bit hard to fully absorb the early morning beauty as I had to stay focused on the trail from the first step down from the parking lot. The Hermit Trail is one of the steeper trails in the canyon and there are many boulders and rubble to maneuver through along the way.


Luckily, after the first couple miles of steep rubble, the trail traverses along a sandstone layer and offers some flatter, easier running. Apart from a few sections of boulder piles to poke through, this section is great running. I even got some nice views of where I would be in another hour down on the Tonto Plateau and crossing the Hermit Creek.

(Hermit Creek is the obviouse drainage. Hermit Creek Camp is near the bottom of this drainage.)

After the long sandstone layer traverse the trail changes to switchbacks, starting with short, steep, rubble switchbacks and ending with excellent wide switchbacks.

(Nice trail, eh?)

Despite the difficulty of the start of these switchbacks I really enjoy this section because of the interesting limestone layer it cuts through. Some of my favorite rock formations are on a ridge along these switchbacks (note in the photo below the cool little spire that looks like a woman sculpture with no arms and head).

Soon after reaching the bottom of the limestone layer switchbacks, I took a left onto the Tonto Trail to work my way over to the Boucher Trail. From here to the finish was all new trail for me. Exciting, because I have been doing laps on the standard corridor trails all spring. Something new...sweet.

Shorty after the junction with the Hermit Rapids and Hermit Creek I reached Hermit Creek Camp and a couple of older guys camped out. I pretty much ran right into them as the trail led right into their campsite. Realizing that I couldn't see where the trail left their camp spot and continued along the Tonto Plateau, I immediately asked them where the Tonto Trail continued from their camp going west. I didn't realize my folly until too late...

One of the gentlemen was very helpful and we looked at my little map and the surrounding area, figuring out that the trail led upstream from camp maybe a 100 yards before cutting back up the hillside and continuing along the Tonto Plateau.

The other gentleman was persistent in keeping me in camp until he was sure this was right. He pulled out a big map that clearly showed that what the first gentleman and I agreed on was the correct way but he wouldn't agree with us. He was sure that I missed the turn for the west Tonto earlier on the trail. I don't know what he was looking at on the map because it was pretty obvious he was wrong and we knew where the trail went but he still wouldn't let me leave. After another 5 minutes or so, I became fed up and wished them good luck and left against his wishes.

He was obviously concerned by my lack of equipment and didn't want me to run off into the canyon to be never seen again. I understand his worry but there was no convincing him I knew where I was going. It was better to just leave him behind to stress. It was best for me to keep moving.

The trail became immediately less obvious on the Tonto west of Hermit Creek. This is where trail finding was going to be more work (Note: I never seriously thought I was going to loose the trail along the whole loop but I will not say that it is "easy" to follow).

The Tonto was a surprising treat to run. I wasn't surprised by the wonderful, rolling terrain that was perfect for running but I was surprised with the exposure along the way. Some sections of the trail were perched on the edge of cliffs with thousands of feet of exposure to the river. I had some great views of the river in fact, seeing Hermit Rapids and even some river runners in rafts below Hermit Rapids.

(Hermit rapids)

(Look closely and you can see some rafts on the river)

Further along the Tonto, nearing the Boucher Trail, I got my first glimpse of some of the cool Travertine formations in this part of the canyon.

(Travertine formation along the Tonto)

After many miles of flat running on the Tonto, I reached the Boucher Trail. If I went up I would be heading back uphill to the Hermit Trail and the rim but I was out of water and it was time to refill. Boucher Creek (.4 miles below me in a narrow canyon) is an annual flowing creek and I had planned from the start to refill here as there would be no more water after this point. Good timing.

I jogged the .4 miles down, chatted it up with some guys camping at the creek and refilled my bladder and handheld (didn't treat it). It was refreshing to touch some water after running along the dusty Tonto in the rising heat of the day and seeing the rushing water of the Grand Canyon far below.

After filling up, I left quickly, eager to start the uphill battle that I have heard so much about on the Boucher.

(Boucher Creek)

The first crux of the Boucher is one of the easier ones (I didn't think this at the time I was sucking wind power hiking up it but little did I know what was to come later...).

Crux 1 heads up from Boucher Creek though the Travertine and Limestone layer. It starts as standard steep switchbacks that are just too steep to run and ends with a scramble (yes, I used my hands a few times) through a steep gully following cairns to reach the plateau above.

I remember going through this section and wondering if I was off route only because it didn't really resemble a trail at a few points, just a line of cairns through bushes and rubble.

(Gully scrambling)

Once I reached the next plateau above the limestone it was confirmed that I was still on the trail by a well worn path leading east. I was happy to be through the limestone and enjoyed running again.

I was able to run for a little while until I reached the start of the the next crux, Crux 2. This was probably the hardest crux for me because I didn't expect it (I guess I could have researched the steep sections better). This section was just a mish mesh of faint trail leading up a super exposed and chossy section of gullies and ledges. The beta for this section is pretty much follow the little cairns even if it seems like you are going the wrong way. Somehow the trail successfully plops you onto the next plateau.

Definitely no running in this section and the walking isn't even fast. Crux 2 is pretty much scrambling...I definitely used my hands in some sections of this. Wow. What a trail! Looking back I wish I took photos in the thick of it in this section as it was quite spectacular in some spots.

(Looking back down after nearing the end of Crux 2)

After Crux 2 the terrain eased and I was able to start running again. I was on a narrow mesa that split two sandstone layers. The start of this mesa was actually quite nice running again (I was starting to wonder if this was a run or a hike...).

Then it all went tricky again...Crux 3. The trail was fine for the most part but the narrowness of the trail and the extreme exposure of the next many miles made it, again, hard to run.

Like I just said, the trail was fine for the most part but the exposure! and it was getting hot. I really couldn't move to fast through this, mostly jogging or fast walking with some stints of careful slow walking. Why? Because I was getting tired and hot and because of the exposure if I tripped and lost my footing I would not be able to stop myself from falling thousands of feet! The trail was literally on a chossy steep slope of rocks and dirt perched right above a drop off of thousands of feet! Again, I should have taken some photos of this section...

By no means was I scared, I just couldn't run much because of the consequences of falling. Very impressive that there is a trail along this section of cliffs. I really enjoyed the position...just had to be very careful. I will say one thing...I am glad I didn't have a big ass back pack on this trail. This was exciting enough with the barely noticeably little Nathan running pack.

When I reached the Boucher/Dripping Springs Junction I was very happy, knowing that the worst was over and I would soon be back on the big wide trail of the Hermit Trail. From this junction, the trail became quite nice to run and I really took advantage of it to stretch my legs back out...ahhh running again.

(End of Crux 3)

Once back on the Hermit Trail, all I had to do was power hike my butt back up the steep final switch backs to to the rim. It was refreshing to be going up a steep trail that was actually easy to navigate. The Hermit is by no means a smooth trail as I stated at the start of this post but it is like heaven compared to the brutality that is the Boucher.

(Amazing, detailed stonework on the upper Hermit Trail)

Once finished on the rim, I stopped my watch at 5 hours and 58 minutes (very slow but still under 6 hours...not quite sure why that matters...) and then jogged over to the bus. Just like that I was on a mid day rim bus, packed in with a full load of clean and well scented tourists, trying not to offend anyone with my dirty and stinky body (one lady moved away from me half way back to our cars). What a mini culture shock to be in the canyon barely seeing a soul and having such an adventure and then immediately cramming oneself into a sardine can bus of tourists.

Looking back, I'm not sure what the best way to travel the canyon is if someone wanted to go fast...I have read on websites that this loop would be a good one for FKT's (Fastest Known Times) to be recorded but man...I can see going way faster if I didn't chit chat or take a bunch of photos but I don't know how much faster. Obviously, someone could do it really fast, easily under 5 hours and maybe under 4 hours but at what cost? There were many sections that would be go time to run fast but in many of these sections on the Boucher all it takes is one minor slip and the runner would be gone forever. Someone would have to be really want it to post a super fast time... or maybe it wouldn't be as sketchy if they did the loop the other way, going down the boucher. This way they would be fresh for the sketchier sections and then down hill for the steep parts which are mostly rocky. Going up the Hermit would be way faster than going up the Boucher...mmm. Maybe, sometime I will try it the other way and see how that goes, leave the camera at home and see what happens.

I'd love to hear some other reports on this matter...

Speaking of mules in The Grand Canyon...

I can still have hope for a mule free Grand Canyon. Read the article about a possible scale back of the use of mules in The Grand canyon here at azdailysun.com.

Up with the Grand Canyon, Down with the mules!

(my view for the better part of a mile...aaarrrggg)

If you want to INHALE mule PISS, STEP IN piles of mule POOP and puddles of mule PISS, INHALE DUST and get it IN YOUR EYES and be told to GET OUT OF THE WAY by a fake cowboy leading a long line of mules on a hoof destroyed WILDERNESS trail then you should come and hike IN the amazing GRAND CANYON!

I'm going to apologize ahead of time for my rant... here goes...

I now officially don't want mules in the Grand Canyon! I used to deal with them while disagreeing with their use but after the last few years of run ins and especially after yesterday I just don't want them there at all!

I know that they are in the canyon for a reason.

-to get mail, food, supplies and such too and from the private (not apart of Grand Canyon National Park) Phantom Ranch and it's visitors

-to move tourists in and out of the canyon that are staying at Phantom Ranch

-probably also used to get National Park gear moved through the canyon

But for all the gross piss and poop, dust and destroyed trails is it really worth it for a very small percentage of the Grand Canyon visitors that use Phantom Ranch? I mean...what ever happened to hiking stuff into remote places, the wilderness experience and being in good shape to travel to such a remote place as the bottom of the Grand Canyon!

I know there is a long history of mules in the Grand Canyon but that is no excuse for continuing to use them. In fact, I would be happy if Phantom Ranch wasn't even there. There is no need for it in the canyon. It is only there as a money making venture by a private company, not even run by the Grand Canyon. I say get rid of Phantom Ranch and the mules who support it!

So why am I ranting...

I have had many a negative run in with mule trains, definitely more negative ones than positive ones. Most times it is negative only because of the piles of poop and piss, dust and chewed up trails. Some times it is because the workers who travel with the mule trains can be grumpy and short as I near them, sometimes shouting at me from a couple switch backs away to stop where I'm at as if I'm going to run right through them and crawl right over their mules (note: I always stop and stand to the inside of the trail well before they get to me...every time!). Then there was yesterday...

Yesterday was all of the above by multiple mule trains clogging up the S. Kaibab. Then, on the way back out there was the final straw that made me go over the thresh hold of hate for mule trains.

Not only had I been dealing with the dust, excrement and now already getting chewed up S. Kaibab (remember that the Grand Canyon trail crews had just finished busting their asses with our tax dollars to fix this trail from all the years of mule trail abuse) but between Skeleton Point and Cedar Ridge I hit a long straight and flat section of trail where ahead of me I saw a mule train paused on the trail with lots of hikers passing. I ran quickly to try and catch them before they started again (they were going the same direction I was) as I could see that the next 1/2 to 3/4 miles would be difficult to pass them. I was in plain view of them the whole time I was running the flat section and then when I was less than 100 yard away and thinking they were going to wait the 30 seconds for me to pass they started moving again. WTF. They knew I was coming and deliberately started moving again. Now I was stuck walking at a snail pace behind them in their billowing dust for the next almost 3/4 miles. To make it worse they looked back many times and saw me walking behind them (they knew I was moving faster than them as I passed them on the way down too) and chose to ignore me. They had at least 6 or 7 spots with plenty of room to stop and let me pass but kept going to just below the Cedar Ridge outhouse. I almost went off trail a few times to scramble by them to pass and give them a piece of my mind but fought the urge knowing that it would just piss them off and make it worse for future runners and for myself. In all, I was behind them breathing in their dust for over 15 minutes when I could have been by them right at the start and not on their ass. Super frustrating.

I know that this may not be as big a deal to a hiker as hikers never catch up to mule trains from behind but to a runner this is really tough. I kept a good pace going the whole way into the canyon and busting my ass back out and then near the rim of the canyon and looking to PR on the trail by a wide margin I get the shaft by these mule train guys that want to make a point about runners in the canyon or something. Aarrrggg.

I did end up PRing by almost 10 minutes on the S. Kaibab of in and out in 2 hrs and 53 minutes but before I got stopped by the mule train I was on pace for finishing in about 2 hrs and 40 minutes. I was really excited about my improved time but also bummed about the mule situation in the canyon. They really just don't seem appropriate in a place like the Grand Canyon. Especially in their numbers. There are a lot of them!

I have really been excited about this last week with my prs on Elden Lookout Road and now two days later on the S. Kaibab as I know now that I am on the edge of being able to really run this stuff. Not just plod along slowly but really run.

I know I had some excessive complaining about the mules in this post but I am still really excited to run in the canyon. I love that place and every time I am in there I am extremely psyched!

Up with the Grand Canyon-Down with the mules!

PR on Elden Lookout Road

This is probably more exciting to me than anyone else but I got a new pr on the Elden Lookout Road of up and down in 1 hr 22 minutes. Last year, and even this winter, I thought that it would be a big personal stepping stone in my speed if I could run it in less than an hour and a half. As it turns out it wasn't that hard. It was difficult to run it in under 1 hr and 45 minutes this winter in the snow and I only reached 1 hr and 35 minutes once. I guess it made a big difference to run it in good weather and dry, clear road conditions. I felt like I was moving well all the way up and reached the top in 52 minutes (all winter I was averaging 1 hr and 5 to 15 minutes to the top). On the way down I really let go and made it down in 30 minutes (not that much faster than usual but still moving). The area that time can really be improved is going up hill. The road is steep enough that it is hard for me to run down it much faster but I can continue to make improvements going up. I'm still not going that fast uphill. Warming up a bit will help for a faster time too. I haven't been warming up before runs up Elden Lookout Road as I don't usually go fast enough to really need one but I think if I want to go faster I should get my lungs and legs going a bit so I'm not sucking so much wind in the first part of the uphill.

Enough rambling...
I'm pretty excited about the time as it means I am continuing to improve in my running and have the ability to go faster but I know that there are many runners in this town that would crush a time like this. I'm not, for a moment, thinking I am doing something important in the running world but in my little world I'm pretty psyched!

Beer for my hommies

Take a moment and try to imagine all the work that trail crews have done all over the country to make our local trails so wonderful to travel. While pondering this remember that there are thousands of trails in the United States and some of these trails took months or even years to complete and that there is annual maintenance on many of the more popular trails. All of this is done by human hands, backs, sweat and tears. After a few moments of thought and imagination, it's kind of hard to really grasp all of effort put in by trail crews...isn't it?

Now take it to the next level and think about what trail crews must do to build and maintain trails in remote wilderness areas like The Grand Canyon, remembering that the crews can't use motorized equipment to help them. No chainsaws or jackhammers, just shovels, picks, rakes and muscle. Pretty crazy, eh? Miles upon miles of switch back after switch back with the finished product being burly enough to not only resist mother nature and human impacts but mule trains too.

I think we all owe trail crews a big thank you...especially the ones in The Grand Canyon.

Why am I starting with this? Because last time I ran in The Grand Canyon, I was running on the S. Kaibab and ran into a trail crew just above the Tonto Trail that was working hard on an especially back breaking section of the trail. I asked them if they had any beer, just joking around, and they quickly and aggressively informed me that I shouldn't bring up beer unless I had some with me to offer. This response made me realize instantly that I should not come back in this canyon without something to offer them as a thank you for their hard work or I might get a shovel to the skull (just kidding but they were very serious about wanting beer!). I vowed to return with beer to give them the next time I came down the S. Kaibab to set things right.

During the rest of that run I contemplated the amazing amount of effort they put in so people like me could glide down such a spectacular trail instead of scrambling and sliding down thousands of feet of death scree and cliffs to the canyon bottom. I was most definitely bringing beer the next time in. It was the least I could do!

When Matt and I got in the canyon Monday to run the classic S. Kaibab/Bright Angel Loop I made sure to have some frosty beers in the pack. It wasn't too much of a burden since I was carrying minimal water for the way down, I had lots of room for a couple beers and the weight wasn't noticeable.

As we started down the S. Kaibab a little after sunrise I was imagining their faces as I rounded a corner and handed them some beer! How fun.

The run down to where I expected to run into the trail crew was pleasant as always with excellent warm but not hot weather and no clouds. I always enjoy the upper S. Kiabab as I am usually thinking about how bad ass it is to be able to come here and run all the time and how much fun I will have running for hours in such a special place.

(Me, cruising along enjoying the views just below Cedar Ridge)

Not to far below this point is Skeleton Point and the start of where I expected the trail crew to be working... But, when I got below Skeleton Point my stomach dropped. They weren't working on the S. Kaibab anymore! All their tools were gone and the trail was finished. Oh poop! I had missed them. I was bummed not to be able to give them the beer. Luckily, I found all their stuff stashed near the Tonto Trail intersection and I decided to at least leave the beer with their stuff hoping some trail crew folk would happen upon it before it got helicoptered away. I left a note with it thanking them for their hard work. Oh well, at least I tried.

(Me again, enjoying one of my favorite sections of trail on the S. Kaibab (just below the Tonto Trail junction). I'm hard to see but I'm near the right side of the photo)





(Matt, nearing the river)

(Me, crossing the Colorado River. It's always a great feeling crossing this bridge knowing your in the thick of it, deep in the canyon)

The trip back up the Bright Angel Trail was more work than going down but it was made a bit easier by the numerous mule trains and the extreme hordes of people slowing us down. I got a lot of rest stops waiting for mule trains to move to the side. Not great if I was trying to break a personal best on the trail but for today it was just fine. In fact, because of the slower pace I was able to see how far I could run on the trail. Usually, about 3/4 of the way up the Bright Angel Trail I resort to a power hike but because of the rests I was able to stay pretty fresh and I was able to jog to within the last 1/2 mile before settling in to a walk with all the tourists plugging up the trail. Note: It was particularly touristy on the trail this day...I think it was still spring break for some people.

(Matt, just after passing another mule train)

(Looking back at the final sections of the Bright Angel Trail. Still snow covered!)

All in all a great day. To the S. Kaibab trail crew...sorry about the late arrival on the beer and thanks for the work on the trails.

April Fools!

The weather has been getting warmer, almost all the snow had melted in town, some trails were even runnable...and then April Fools! It looks like winter had at least one more storm in her and the dumping happened last night.

After living in Flagstaff for over 10 years, I am used to this occurrence (late spring snow fall). It happens pretty much every year. That known fact doesn't stop me from living in denial every spring when April is upon us and the birds start to chirp and the grass and flowers start to grow.

It still manages to surprise me every year...that pesky late snowfall.

No matter, I still had one of my most memorable runs of the winter this morning (even though it's spring). It snowed all right but not enough to stop a run up the Elden Lookout Road (Elden Lookout Road has been something of a weekly running rutual for me this winter to get some vertical). There was only about 2-5 inches on the road with only a few drifts to pound through and the snow was all light powder making for a reasonable pace up hill and pleasant "floating" on the way back down. I made first tracks up the road that morning adding to the pleasure. It was extremely beautiful in the early morning light with all the fresh snow everywhere. I tried to really enjoy the scene as I knew that it was probably the last time I'd run in snow like this for many months.

Note: As I write this it is warm and sunny outside and all the snow is melting! It could all be gone from town by afternoon, today. Welcome to Flagstaff weather!

(looking up the Elden Lookout Road after the run)

Still meaning to finish that post about running in The Grand Canyon a few days ago...

(Matt and I running down the S. Kaibab Trail)