By the light of the full moon (and some help by my headlamp), I did R2R2R again last
Friday. All went well although I had some rough spots along the way (expected on something this difficult).
I left the house a little after 5 pm.
On the drive to the canyon I realized I forgot my watch which was a bit of a worry for me because I use it to pace myself and eat on long runs. On a long run like this I don't want to go too fast or slow on a given section or not eat enough. It can mean some serious drama if I bonk somewhere in the bottom of the Grand Canyon.
I looked for a watch to buy at a couple gas stations and gift shops on the way but with no luck. The only watches they had were
cheesy fake gold and silver touristy ones that weren't digital (I needed a digital watch).
I ended up giving up on a watch and decided to bring my cell phone instead. I wouldn't get any service the whole time in the canyon but if I only turn it on a few times along the way I will probably have enough juice in it to work for the whole run.
Later on the drive to the Grand Canyon I almost got killed by a super stupid driver. He did the classic nimrod move...pass someone with way to little room and then be
stubborn and keep trying to pass and making me (the oncoming car) slam on my brakes and swerve off the road while narrowly missing a head on collision!!! That was freaky!
Well...after the watch and near death
excitement I finally got to the canyon and the parking lot for the S.
Kaibab Trail about 7 pm. I packed my backpack and was off, starting down the S.
Kaibab at about 7:15 pm...
Friday night was a great night to run the canyon because the canyon was lit up by a full moon and it was to be a low of about 40 degrees at the south and north rims and in the 60's in the bottom (at Phantom Ranch). About as comfortable and beautiful conditions as one could ask for. Lot's of good energy.
The way down the S.
Kaibab was generally uneventful. I passed quite a few people in the first couple miles snapping photos of the impressive sunset that was unfolding before our eyes. Further down the trail, after sunset, I passed a group of hikers that were starting their own rim to rim to rim adventure. After them, I didn't see another soul until I reached the river and Phantom Ranch.
On the way through Phantom Ranch I felt like I was going through a little town. Cabins and tents all about with lights on (yes, they get electricity down there) and people walking around after leaving dinner (yes, they have a restaurant there). It was 8:30 pm and I had run 7 miles and 1 hr and 15 minutes.
I was quickly through Phantom Ranch and onto the N.
Kaibab and following Bright Angel Creek. I didn't see another human until I had touched the north rim and was half way down the North
Kaibab again. What I did see were deer (they kept running in front of me on the trail), frogs (like land mines on the trail all along Bright Angel Creek) and a scorpion (I jumped him on the way up and on the way down the N.
Kaibab).
I felt way better on the N.
Kaibab than last time I did it and ran and power hiked the final 5 miles of super steep to the north rim. In fact, I got to the north rim at midnight (45 minutes faster than last time). 21 miles down in 4 hours and 45 minutes. Cool!
I was really trying to break 10 hours this time (I did it in 11 hours last try) so it was exciting to be doing so well and feeling so good.
Everything changed on the way down. I thought that I would recover and get stronger on the next 14 miles of downhill but that was not the case. I couldn't get over a general feeling of fatigue that I didn't feel last time. My knees felt weaker and I couldn't muster the leg strength to get a fast
rhythm going. I mostly jogged the 14 miles down to the river.
I did see the R2R2R hikers again when I was 2 or 3 miles from reaching Phantom Ranch. It was fun to see them and it gave me a little motivation to keep pushing hard knowing I wasn't the only one out here having an adventure in the middle of the night.
At Phantom ranch I tried to get the time from my cell phone but it didn't work. I don't know why but it wouldn't give me the time like it had on the north rim so I didn't have the luxury of knowing how hard to push to try to make it to the north rim in less than 10 hours. I didn't know if I was ahead or behind schedule. All I could do was push on the best that I could.
I couldn't hide from the fact that I didn't feel energized for the push back up the S.
Kaibab. The moment I left Phantom Ranch and started going up hill I knew it was going to be a battle to get to the rim with any kind of speed. Even though I felt like crap I kept pushing hard, power walking where it was really steep and shuffle running when it was only a little steep (there really aren't any flat spots on the S.
Kaibab).
A couple miles up the S.
Kaibab I started to run into other hikers trying to get in or out of the canyon before sunrise (the temps were going to push 100 degrees at the bottom of the canyon that day). It was kind of cool seeing little headlamp lights flickering along the sides of the canyon as people made their way thousands of feet above and below me on the trail.
About half way out of the canyon it started to get light. This was about the same time that I crossed paths
with a group of guys that were jogging down the trail. We exchanged hello's and I
found out they were starting their own R2R2R adventure. We wished each other luck and continued on.
My progress on the next section after it got light was very, very slow. I was probably walking a
leisure pace by most hikers standards for at least a mile or so. Definitely fighting fatigue at this point.
About three miles from the top I got a text from Susan (weird because I thought I had turned my phone off when it wouldn't give me the time earlier and because I shouldn't get any service in the canyon) that said that she loved me and was proud of me for what I was doing. This was special and much needed support. With the jolt her text gave to my emotions, I gained a bit of motivation for the finish. I was able to power hike/shuffle run the rest of the way out and ran the last switch backs up to the south rim.
When I reached the rim it was 5:50 am. It had taken me 10 hours and 35 minutes to complete the R2R2R this time (25 minutes faster than last time) and I had to work for every mile of it. I was
exhausted!
All in all, it was an awesome experience. Starting as the sun set, running all night long with the beautiful moonlight dancing on the walls of the canyon and then finishing as the sun rose was more amazing than I can explain. I even got that feeling of total fatigue and satisfaction I have only gotten on really hard runs where I have so much emotion role over me at once that I feel like crying. It is an amazing feeling and if you have felt it you don't need me to explain. It is something to really savor. A person doesn't get that intense of a feeling often in life.